MINT (Mentha)

"The smelle rejoiceth the heart of man." (16th century herbalist John Gerard)
Mint is one of the plants used the longest by man. The name derives from a Greek nymph, Mintha, who was changed into a lowly plant when a jealous Persephone found out that her husband Pluto was in love with the beautiful nymph. Pluto could not undo Persephone's spell, but he did mitigate the effects a bit so that the more Mintha was trod upon, the sweeter her fragrance. Long before, however, the herb was known and used by the ancient Israelites and Egyptians. The Pharisees paid their taxes with mint. Both Israelites and Egyptians used mint liberally in cooking-as they still do to this day and in medicines. The Greeks used it in various temple rites and herbal remedies. They wove it into crowns and considered it effective to clear the voice, to cure hiccups, and to counteract sea serpent stings! It was also a symbol of hospitality because of its use to rub and freshen wooden tables.

The Romans used it in their baths. They appreciated its refreshing and stimulating effect. Pliny the Elder, who thought mint the loveliest of herbs, recommended its use in his Natural History because the scent alone "reanimates the spirit and is a strong stimulant to the appetite." When mint was exported to East Asia, it charmed the Chinese and Japanese with its calming properties.

In France, Charlemagne ordered that mint be cultivated in the Holy Roman Empire and in the Middle Ages mint was traditional in monastic gardens. It was also used to keep domestic geese from eating other plants. Beds of goose-pleasing foliage were protected from the predations of geese by a border of mint. Geese were said to have a horror of its taste. (There is some useful information for your gardening!)

In England, Culpepper listed many medicinal uses for mint to treat a host of conditions. Mint was used in baths to "strengthen the sinews." It was also used as a strewing herb, in teas and in confections. Rosemary Hemphill, in Fragrance and Flavour, notes that "a few sprigs of mint boiled with new potatoes is believed to make them more digestible."

In fact, improving the digestion is one of the oldest and most effective medicinal uses of mint. In France last summer, my friends served me a mint tisane every evening after dinner. They would add a large bunch of tender young mint sprigs to the teapot, along with one regular tea bag, and let it steep for about five minutes before serving. We added liberal amounts of sugar and had a wonderful after dinner "digestif."

There are a large number of varieties of mint, the best known being spearmint (Mentha spicata)—and that is the one used in my French tisane. Rosemary Hemphill recommends using apple mint (M. rotondifolia) which, she says, smells strongly of apples, for making mint sauce. Another source, Rodale’s Illustrated Encyclopedia of Herbs, gives a different Latin name (M. suaveolens), which is described as having a mildly fruity flavor. Eau de cologne mint or bergamot mint (M. piperita citrata) has dark purplish leaves with a fragrance definitely reminiscent of eau de cologne. Hemphill recommends putting a sprig of this mint in the saucepan when cooking peas, to enjoy the scent that fills the kitchen and delicately flavor the peas. She also notes that eau de cologne mint makes a refreshing tea on hot days.

The lower growing peppermint (M. piperita officinalis) is the plant grown for commercial mint products. Hemphill recommends a tisane of peppermint for cold sufferers. Curly mint (M. spicata crispata) is used in mint sauce and is "most attractive and tastes delicious when crystallized."

Other varieties include variegated pineapple mint (M. suaveolens varigata), good in cold drinks, and Corsican mint (M. requiennii), used to make crème de menthe. Use sparingly to make mint water.

All mints like fairly rich soil and plenty of water and, as we all know, they have rampant root systems. Hemphill offers a wonderfully English suggestion for confining mints. "If space is limited, each variety may be confined in a chimney pot buried up to the rim in the ground!" Propagate by root division.

Mints are popular in Greek, Arabic, North African, Middle Eastern, and Indian food. I have been surprised to find that mint is also traditionally used in Italy to season sautéed mush-rooms or zucchini rounds. Wash and halve the mushrooms, sauté in a fifty-fifty mix of butter and olive oil until done. Then season with salt and pepper and toss in a liberal amount of freshly chopped mint and serve immediately. Wash and slice small zucchini (eight inches or less and the smaller the better) into "coins." Sauté in a large sauté pan in olive oil at a temperature high enough to keep the zucchini juices from collecting and to render the coins golden brown. You may have to cook large amounts in batches to avoid the juices boiling your zucchini. When all the zucchini coins are done and golden brown, season with salt and pepper and add a handful of freshly chopped mint. Serve immediately

 

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Last updated by rauchfus@uiuc.edu