BALSAMIC VINEGAR

July 2005

Balsalmic Vinegar

I wanted to write about something from my recent vacation to Italy. Since I am now the proud (but uneducated) owner of two aged bottles of balsamic vinegar, I decided that is what I needed to write about. I hope you find it as interesting as I did.

There are three types of balsamic vinegar: those made in the Modena and Reggio regions of Italy by the ancient artisan method, commercial brands made outside the regions of Italy, and imitations. The discovery of balsamic vinegar and vinegars in general is said to have been most certainly by accident, as vinegar is the natural by-product of making alcohol (beer and wine). Vinegar is noted as being used as far back as the Sumerians. The Sumerians (2900-1800 BC) used vinegar as a condiment, a preservative, medicine, an antibiotic, and a detergent. Balsamic vinegar, however, dates back to 1046, when a barrel of it was given to the soon-to-be emperor Enrico III of Franconia as a gift from Marquess Bonifacio. During this period of time, balsamic vinegar was very highly regarded, but available only to the nobility or the limited aristocratic artisans who made the product. It was believed to be a miracle cure for everything from a sore throat to labor pains.

Balsamic vinegar is unique because it does not come from wine, as one would suspect, but from the grape pressings that have never been permitted to ferment into wine. Typically, the sweet white Trebbiano grape pressings are boiled down to dark colored syrup called “must” and then aged under very rigid restrictions. The syrup is placed in oaken kegs, along with a vinegar “mother” and the aging process is begun. Over the years it graduates into smaller and smaller kegs made of chestnut, cherry, ash, mulberry or juniper until it is ready for sale. The process of aging and knowing when to transfer the “must” to the next barrel and at what concentration level it should be when transferred is something learned by the artisan and passed on over many generations. Some of the casks used in this process are centuries old themselves. An artisan will go to great lengths to preserve even a rib or two of a barrel or cask that falls apart. This ensures the continuance of the flavor from the aged wood. As it ages, the moisture evaporates out, further thickening the vinegar and concentrating the flavor. Some balsamic vinegars have been aged for over 100 years and it is this aging process that makes a true balsamic vinegar from Modena or Reggio so expensive. Even today, there are only about 3,000 gallons of genuine balsamico produced each year but, due to its intense flavor, a little goes a long way.

Don’t think that this is all that a “true” balsamic vinegar must go through to become a good balsamic. A true artisan balsamic is aged a minimum of twelve years and, once it is deemed ready, it is presented to the regional “vinegar consortium” for taste testing by five experts. If the taste is found acceptable, the barrel of vinegar will be bottled and stored according to very strict standards. The bottles themselves are usually small glass globes with long narrow necks and are capped with corks. The bottles are labeled with one of three different colored labels indicating the quality of the artisan vinegar. The gold label is the most highly coveted and indicates vinegar of superior quality. It also makes it the most expensive to purchase.

You can make sure you are purchasing a true Modena or Reggio Italian balsamic vinegar by looking for a code API MO for a Modena product and API RE for one from the Reggio region. A true balsamic vinegar cannot be legally labeled aceto balsamico tradizionale until it has been aged twelve years.

Research states that the flavor should be smooth and full bodied, much the same as an aged brandy and without an acidic taste. The taste should be the perfect balance of sweet and sour. The color will be sable or brown-black and, when the bottle is tipped, the vinegar should leave a thin trace of color on the side of the glass. The Italians feel that once balsamic vinegar has aged fifty years or more and has become thicker, it should not be used in cooking but savored like an aged brandy or whiskey. It is then sipped after dinner like a liqueur. Balsamics aged less than fifty years should be used on fresh ingredients, such as in vinaigrette for salads or on strawberries and always in small amounts because of the intensity of the flavor. A rule of thumb is a teaspoon per person at the most, depending on how it is being used. It is excellent in many dishes and sauces and over various meats. It is usually added at the end of cooking to allow it time to blend with the dish, but keep it from intense heat in order to maintain its aroma. Once the bottle is opened to the air, the vinegar’s quality will not be destroyed and it can be kept indefinitely, stored in a cool, dry place. The possibility of sediment on the bottom exists, but is something not to be concerned about, as it is harmless.

Good commercial brands of balsamic vinegar are widely available in the U.S. My research found that balsamic vinegard made by Fini, Calalli or Cattani were good choices. They are good over baked potatoes, on salads, or over fresh tomatoes and mozzarella with a touch of basil. These vinegars are also good for sauces, vinaigrettes or marinades. Use them to wake up a soup or in a stew and don’t forget to use them on strawberries or raspberries with a bit of sugar. You’ll be addicted! The commercial vinegars take more kindly to heating, but should not be heated in aluminum pots, but rather in non-reactive containers such as glass. Commercial vinegars may also contain sulfites, so if you have allergies you should be aware of this fact. The research indicated an average price of around $20 per bottle for one of these balsamic vinegars, but I have yet to look into this. I’m happy with the ones I currently use in my salads, purchased for less than that price. It seems choosing a balsamic you like is determined by your palate, just like the wine you choose to drink.

Well, that’s what I learned so far about my new balsamic vinegar. The opportunity to purchase our vinegar came from a friend of our hosts in the Florence region. This man has an olive grove and produces his own olive oil, which we were the proud recipients of as a gift. He sells his olive oil and seemed to know a lot about the balsamic vinegars of Modena. He offered us the opportunity to purchase the vinegar from several bottles he obtained from a Modena balsamic distributor. Yes, the 25-year-old bottle we purchased has a gold label, which reads Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, Extra Vecchio (extra old). I may try the 12-year-old bottle first. I’ll let you know if it was all worth it.

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