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- Getting to this page reflects
a healthy skepticism about camera repair. Even the simplest cameras
described on this site have precision components and tearing into them
with abandon is likely to result either in an expensive repair bill
or a disassembled camera that sits in a shoebox on your desk until you
decide to offer it at the next garage sale. On this and the other Tech
Notes pages, I have tried to give you some guidance that will help you
estimate how much you can do.
- NOTE.
While the site began as one focused on a specific group of Kodak cameras,
other subjects and brands have gotten their noses under the tent. In
this Tech Notes section you will find lots of information that applies
to general camera maintenance and some that may apply to other more
specific categories, for example non-Kodak folders. I hope this section
reaches and is useful to non-Kodak collector audiences, but it is always
wise to ask yourself, just how much generalization you can draw from
my explanations.
STRATEGIES
- Tech Notes describes several
levels of maintenance. You can follow the steps to clean up your camera
without getting into the more complex processes like flood-cleaning
a shutter. Cleaned cameras look better in a collection and take better
pictures.
- Start simple. Pick up a box camera
for $3 at a garage sale and take it apart. It won't have a complicated
mechanism. You will test your skills. If you can't reassemble it, you
haven't made a large investment.
- Buy a Kodak Tourist on eBay or
at a garage sale. One with a simple lens should cost about $15. Restore
it and experiment a little with medium-format photography. You will
have to reroll 120 film onto 620 spools,
but otherwise this is a simple experiment.
- For your first effort, find a
camera with a working shutter. Shutters are by far the most complex
part of simple older cameras. You can do the cleaning described here
without having to get into more complex mechanics.
- Almost all amateur camera repairers
get to a point where the complexity of the work and/or the value of
the camera advise against going further. This is the point to put the
repair into the hands of a qualified
technician.
SKILLS
- You probably know by this point
whether you have mechanical aptitude, unless you are a woman. Too few
girls are given an opportunity and the encouragement to test their mechanical
abilities and often arrive at womanhood without realizing they have
those abilities. Good visual and spatial perception and manual dexterity
help with mechanics. If you have done other mechanical work--car repair,
plumbing, home electrical work, sewing, woodworking, pottery, furniture
refinishing--you have established that you have some skills that will
transfer to camera maintenance.
- Being well-organized is essential.
The ability to see how a mechanism works, then retain either a mental
note of that understanding or be able to make written notes or drawings
is important in getting a camera reassembled correctly. Keeping removed
parts identified and organized is essential.
WORK AREA
- Obviously, you don't need a large
work area to do camera maintenance; four to six square feet is about
right. A Formica countertop is generally stain resistant and cleans
up easily. The only chemicals I use are glass cleaner, naphtha, leather
dressing, shoe polish, and light oil. None of them is particularly toxic
if left on surfaces, but if you use the kitchen counter you should clearly
separate foot preparation and camera maintenance operations. Naphtha
is highly volatile and flammable. Your work area should
be well-ventilated and have no open flames or other ignition sources.
- Your work space should be as
dust free as possible.
- This area should be clean and
well-lit. A task light that can be easily positioned is essential. A
small, high-intensity light on a movable arm stays out of your way visually
and provides focused light.
- Small camera parts easily find
their way onto the floor. A shallow 'fence' on the edge of your work
surface will help prevent this.
- Small plastic boxes with compartments--the
kind fishermen use for lures--are very helpful in keeping parts sorted.
You can identify the parts with small stickit notes attached to each
compartment.
- Small and medium plastic containers
used for food storage are good containers for storing larger parts and
camera chassis.
- You will also need a place to
store a small collection of tools.
SUPPLIES
- Naphtha is lighter fluid. Having
naphtha in a lighter fluid can is convenient. Buy one can, then refill
it from larger cans you can get at the hardware store.
- Q-tips are very convenient for
cleaning the many small areas that collect dust and grime on a camera.
- Lens cleaning tissue and fluid.
Thomas Tomosy, the author of several camera repair books, recommends
Windex and any soft tissue. Avoid any cleaner that is acidic. Other
camera technicians feel safer using photo lens cleaner. While I use
facial tissue and paper towels, I do find that lens tissue is effective
in getting a lens sparkling clean.
- A tooth brush is a good mildly
abrasive way to clean metal and plastic parts.
BOOKS AND INFORMATION SOURCES
- While there are several entire
curricula on camera repair and these are taught with textbooks and other
instructional material, there are not many general camera repair books.
Thomas Tomosy has written a series that include two volumes on general
techniques, each of which also has sections on specific cameras. He
also has two volumes that describe repair of older cameras--one volume
for cameras before 1945, and the second for cameras manufactured between
1945-70. Don't expect lavishly illustrated, step-by-step instructions
for a particular camera model. Camera manufacturers also publish manuals,
some of which are quite extensive and others that are little more than
exploded diagrams and parts lists.
- Ed
Romney has written basic camera maintenance texts and advanced texts
for particular camera models.
- Another source of support is
the Web. There are sites for professional camera repair technicians
to share information, but these normally require affiliation and certification
as a professional. Discussion lists can provide an opportunity to ask
questions and share information between photographers and collectors.
Photo.net covers a broad range of
forums on photographic subjects. Bob
Monaghan's Mid-format/Large-format site is generally a distillation
of discussion list threads that relate to these two formats; the site
is large and primarily text-based. Browse the indexes for general topics
or use the search feature to pinpoint specific information.
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TOOLS
- Tool quality. Many tools
now come from Southeast Asia and are available in several qualities.
Quality tends to follow price, so the $3 set of jeweler's screw drivers
you buy in the budget bin at the drug store are probably made of soft
steel and will bend and break in time. Better quality tools are available
from hardware stores and specialty suppliers. You may find the same
$3 screwdriver set at the hardware store, but they should be able to
offer you an alternative quality.
- Tool selection. Most of
us collect cameras that we don't use on a daily basis. This allows us
to build a tool collection gradually, buying new tools when we need
them.
- The tools you will need depend
entirely on how much you expect to do. If you have a single camera that
you would like to clean up, investing in many tools would be an extravagance.
If you are starting or have a collection, a modest investment in tools
will allow you to clean up new purchases and maintain your collection.
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SOURCES FOR TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
- Most communities have at least
one hardware store that will have a collection of precision tools.
- Radio Shack has traditionally
carried small tools of reasonable quality.
- Probably the largest supplier
of photographic repair tools is Fargo
Enterprises, which has a paper catalog and also an inclusive Web
site. They carry all of the Tomosy
volumes.
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Magnifier.
Sometimes known as a jeweler's loupe, a magnifier is essential for work
with small parts. There are several styles. Monocles that clip on to existing
glasses frames, binocular version worn like a cap, desk lamps that combine
a large magnifier with a light source. Prices range from about $7-35. |
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Small (jewelers) screw
drivers. Though there are several styles--some with permanent handles
and some with a handle that will accept a selection of bits with different
ends--I find the ones with a rotating end on the handle to be very convenient.
You can place your forefinger on the rotating end and spin the shaft with
your thumb and middle finger. You will encounter many different screw head
styles across a broad range of cameras. With the Kodaks described here,
assorted sizes of slotted and Phillips head screwdrivers will satisfy most
of your needs. |
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Pliers are often
a little large for camera work, but you should have at least one pair with
fine needle points and another with flat jaws. These should be small precision
pliers, typically about five inches long. |
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Brushes. You will
need a soft lens brush, a stiffer bristle brush for cleaning camera body
areas, and a toothbrush for scrubbing. |
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Blower. You need
a source of clean dry air that you can use to dislodge dust. The simplest
device is a small plastic bulb with a plastic nozzle. |
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Tweezers are essential
for grasping the small parts used in cameras. Ones with curved or offset
points seem handier to me. Tweezers made from very strong metal are important,
since the surface area you are applying pressure to is very small. |
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On higher quality cameras,
you will find screws with heads that require a spanner wrench. Don't
be tempted to attack these with pliers; very likely you won't loosen them,
but will distort the holes. If you have cameras with these kinds of screw
heads, invest in an adjustable spanner wrench. You will also use these to
remove the rear retaining rings on lens/shutter assembly, especially in
folders. |
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Rubber bottle stoppers can
be used to loosen threaded lens elements. You can find these at hardware
stores in various sizes.
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Lens element wrenches.
Except for scale focusing lenses, front lens elements, and all back lens
elements, are threaded and tightened into threaded sleeves in the shutter.
If the rubber stopper will not loosen the element, you will need a tool
like soft jaw pliers or special lens clamps to remove them. In my experience,
only a small fraction of lenses require this kind of tool. |
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Specialized tools. There
are many specialized tools for cameras--special wrenches, lens clamps,
lens rim straighteners, special screwdrivers and pliers that allow you
to deal with exceptional situations. These tend to be expensive and have
limited usefulness, though sometimes the right tool is the only way to
attack a problem.
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